Index - Godzilla (5.9), Pisces - September 28th

I was in the process of recovering from a little bug this weekend.  We had to bail on some alpine climbs but decided to get in a short rock climb in.  Michael and I headed out to Index late in the afternoon to climb Godzilla and maybe something else.  I'd never climbed Godzilla before, but it's similar to Princely Ambitions in that it's a very long route, high, and exposed.  My big challenges on this route were that I was a rusty from full-on rock climbing, I didn't trust some of the required moves, and I was a little nervous from the exposure.  The first problematic part, though not very hard, was the layback.  It took me a while to start this section - I kept trying to figure out a face-style way to climb this.  Well, I'm no 5.11 climber so I started the layback.  It was actually pretty easy though strenuous.  My mistake was getting suckered into grabbing a flake prematurely then was unable to continue the layback.  Arr...after letting go I finished the layback, quite tired.  The next section was probably harder - a twin crack dihedral with the left crack being more of a finger crack and the right one slightly off-width.  It took me a while to figure out what to do and I eventually got some nice hand jams and made my way up.  Some fun exposed face moves aided by a finger jam got me up to the top.

We were both pretty tired from the climb but wanted to do something else...not hard though.  We decided to do a speedy simul-climb ascent of Pisces.  I'm not sure how fast we climbed it (no watch) but it was quick.  We rappelled as it was getting dark.  The deep forest was quite dark and we stumbled a bit coming out despite the single headlamp!

Exit 38 - Hard stuff - August 1st

Justin, Marika, and I had a lot more time this afternoon.  We started out on the easy wall near the train tressel and did a 5.5 and 5.7.  After that, it was straight over to Nevermind wall to try the long and traversing 10a climb.  Justin, as usual, did a fine job of leading it.  The climb was hard for me but definitely doable.  The start of the climb is really the same as the start as the 10c that we did the previous Wednesday but then trends rightward up the thin ramp.  I needed to rest once but if I had known, I could have moved up a mere 6 inches more to a perfect horn and pulled myself up to the crux ledge.  Well, for next time, I'll know.  The crux ledge wasn't too hard to get up to.  Suddenly I was only about a foot below the anchor.  I heard Justin yell something about a bomber hold right at the anchor.  From where I was, I could just see a ledge.  So, I lifted up and swung my right arm up expecting to catch the hold.  Nothing but smooth rock...I popped off!  Dang!  OK, a little fiddling here and there with feet and small holds got me a little closer to where I could try for a hold further to the right.  Yep, there's the big hold.  Shucks.  Again, I'll know for next time. 

The next climb was a 10b that finished with a 10d section.  Justin made the 10b section look easy then I noticed some worry during the 10d (the d part was really overhanging).  He had to rest only once though.  I lowered him down in a complete free fall and then Marika headed up.  She had trouble with the very beginning but then succeeded in passing the tough start to meet an overhanging little dihedral.  She reported that that was even worse!  Beyond that was easier 5.9 terrain.  She decided to lower off before the 10d section.  Then I started off.  Man, this opening was really hard.  I popped off numerous times then finally pictured the that crazy climber from the last time and visualized how easy it was for him.  Suddenly, I was able to pull up until I was staring into the little overhanging dihedral.  This section was a good bit easier though strenuous.  The key was reaching for a decent handhold.  Fortunately, since I'm fairly tall, I didn't have to work too hard to reach for it.  A series of strenuous moves had me on easier terrain.  I knew the 5.10d section was way out of my league but what the heck, I'd try it.  A fall wouldn't be dangerous at all since this wall was so overhanging (and I knew I'd probably have to fall).  So I headed up.  The climb consists of a series of overhanging ledges, each steeper than the next - kind of like a staircase that had been compressed in and bent backwards.  Just reaching the first ledge was hard.  I needed to move over to the right to get to the second one but I just couldn't figure out how to do that.  I had to fall and I swung way out into the air.  I was able to get back on the wall and I tried a few more times, getting a little higher, but not much.  I finally lowered off and Justin climbed it again to clean it.

The final climb of the day was a weird 5.9 at the same wall.  This one trended right as well up a confining little ramp.  Justin was not happy on it, saying that it was a little scary.  Marika tried it (they'd both done it before, by the way) and then came down on the face climb, after the ramp part.  That part of the climb leans to the right, giving you the feeling that it's ejecting you over the cliff to the right.  It was getting dark so we had to leave but someone had to clean it.  So, I decided to give it a try (though Justin could have done it faster).  All the holds were there but it is a weird, sometimes uncomfortable, climb.  The face part was fun but by the time I was there it was getting pretty dark and I was losing my sense of depth.  So it was hard to find footholds.  The holds were all pretty small and you have to trust to balance and small holds here.  I had to rest at one point because my feet were sore from standing on the small holds.  Eventually, I made it to the top and rapped off.

Exit 38 - Short afternoon - July 30th

Justin, Marika, and I again (that phantom 4th person just never works out) only had a couple of hours of daylight thanks to a couple of late fires at work.  But it was a good day.  We went straight to the 5.9 wall and went up the 4 star one (don't know the name) and it was indeed 4 star:  great holds materializing as you need them, a decent selection of options, and a reasonably long route.  Then we tried to do something a "little" harder and went to the Nevermind wall and tried a 10.c climb.  It was quite short but overhanging.  There was a decent amount of other climbers here, one was a maniac climbing this stuff unroped!  He climbed really hard climbs almost effortlessly.  I guess he knew the climbs real well, he was really good, and he was crazy!  Man, one slip and you're done for.  Anyway, the 10c was indeed tough but we all managed to get up it (Marika and I had to rest a couple of times).  The climb started out with a big overhang but it was easy thanks to the bomber holds.  After that, the ledges and holds became quite small.  Fortunately the climb is short.

Index - GM, Heart of the Country - July 25th

This was a fun and strenuous trip before work.  Michael and I climbed the first two pitches of "GM" and then finished it off with "Heart of the Country".  Each pitch was progressively harder.  The first was 5.8, actually quite easy, just a couple of strange little moves.  At the belay, the second pitch (5.9) looked really hard:  A large roof to negotiate to get into a crack, zero footholds - the move had to be negotiated with pasting and underclinging.  Actually, it was quite doable; every hold appeared where needed and they were quite bomber.  Belaying Michael from below, I was able to see the final pitch, the top portion of "Heart of the Country" (5.10).  It was a vertical, slightly overhanging, crack (sarcastic "oh boy!") that looked really hard.  Michael led it quite nicely and then I struggled.  From the opening move this was hard for me.  Putting my right foot on the beginnings of the sloping crack which later straightened out felt really awkward, like I was being ejected over the right side.  So, I backed down.  I gave it another try and flailed around until I was able to get a little further up.  Don't know how many times I rested on the rope (many times) but I sweated and struggled then finally appeared on top.  One of these days I s'pose...

Index - Aires and Great Northern Slab - July 4th

Michael and I just couldn't sync up for Thursday afternoon so we set out on the morning of 4th of July.  I was set on sleeping in so we headed out around 9:45 I think from his place.  The main objective was "Aires" 5.8+, aka "The Lizard" which is on Great Northern Slab.  It's an interesting and short 4-pitch climb.  4-pitches sounds long but the longest was probably 60 feet, at most.  The climb naturally divides into these short sections.  The first was, my favorite (not), a hand crack about 30 feet long that led to the first belay spot for the standard Great Northern Slab route.  A few semi-painful but quick foot jam movements got me to the crux of the climb where the crack is offset with the righthand slab raised a good foot or foot an a half above the lefthand side.  It's quite awkward and I had to rest at one spot for a while.  The second pitch was fantastic - a short finger crack with small but great footholds right where you need them.  This was one of the best pitches that I've ever done.  As Jeff Smoot says, it's a shame that it's so short.  Pitch three is a flaring chimney that apparently everyone skips in favor of a 5.6 on the left (or maybe a 5.11 on the right).  Well, we weren't going to be deterred.  But, this turned out to be a painful pitch for us, with our sub par chimney technique.  The lefthand wall was slightly overhung but ridgey.  The righthand side is pretty much smooth.  Michael had a tough time with the lead and then I headed up.  I felt pretty good 'cause I was able to get up pretty high just with standard climbing gym moves.  Then my chimney technique failed as I put my back against the lefthand wall.  That didn't work at all and I had to rest a couple of times.  I finally relearned some decent chimney techniques and I was able to pop up at the top of the climb.  Pitch 4 was a short, fun, and exposed traverse to a set of twin cracks.  Michael instructed me to get into the lefthand crack but I did so only sparingly.  I put one foot and one hand in that crack and used the righthand one to lean to the left, since both cracks trended leftward.  It felt really awkward to be completely in the crack (how do you stay balanced) so using both cracks worked out nicely for me.

After the rappel back down to the big railroad bolts, Michael tried a couple times at Libra Crack (5.10) but it was too much today.  So we ended the day with me leading Great Northern Slab with the 5.7 start.  I've never climbed this pitch so it was fun leading.  The opening 5.7 looked sort of hard but it was a breeze as was the remainder of the climb - a super fun, solid cruise back up to the rappel bolts.

Jeff Smoot's description of "Aires"

Exit 38 - More 5.9 Fun - July 2nd

This was another short yet fun outing with Justin and Marika.  First order of business was for me to lead a 5.6 (heck if I know what the name was) right next to the railroad tressle and give Justin a quick rappelling lesson.  I guess I could finally return the favor after numerous sport climbing tips from him.  The 5.6 turned out to be easy but much harder than the next door 5.7, I thought.  After that, Marika led a short-n-easy 5.5, getting her feet a little more wet for sport leading.  Then it was time to head over to the 5.9 wall again to knock out two more climbs.  We climbed the 2nd and 3rd routes from the left, each of which was delightful and not as hard as the 5.9 we'd done the week before.  I got stumped on the first 5.9 when I climbed a little too fast and didn't pay attention to a hidden foothold that was now invisible to me.  I got good advice from below though and put my foot on the hidden step.  The rest featured smaller holds and delicate push offs...all fun stuff.

Exit 38 - First Trip - June 26th

Justin, Marika, and I left sick Julie behind for an afternoon of climbing at Exit 38. This was my first trip to Exit 38, specifically the Deception Crags, and all-in-all was a fun and neat place. Of course, after seeing Index and Leavenworth, it seems a little puny but it's fantastic for quick outdoor climbing after work. Justin and I headed out first right after work and climbed a couple of 5.7s. The first was called "Glob Job" and is situated right next to the old railroad buttress. As such, it's not the most aesthetic climb since you use part of the artificial crack formed by the concrete against the rock on the climb. It's a weird climb too with very little for the left hand. The second 5.7, whose name I've forgotten, is at the top of the bridge at the next rock and is an easy cruise. We waited around for a few moments for Marika, who was fighting traffic at the time, and then headed across the two railroad bridges to the east and started on a 5.10a climb called "My X Wife". Justin did a great job of leading it. It looked pretty tough from below, though short. I followed up and found the cruxes to be along the 1st and second bolts. I popped off about 4 times at the bottom of the climb until it suddenly (and easily) came to me and I made my way up to an uncomfortable stance on my left foot. The stance was in a large v-shaped chip in the rock. Standing on my toe quickly wore my foot out. I knew I should move through the move quickly but being 10a, this wasn't really possible for me. So, I had to rest on the rope. After a revitalized foot, the rest of the climb came pretty easy. We tried a 10c route next and I flailed on the crux, and awkward bulging arete and corner. I ended up having to go into the corner but made it up after only one fall. The rest of the climb came very easy and I later realized I was off route. Justin didn't say anything though! Marika led a short 5.6 and we ended the evening on the 5.9 wall climbing the second route from the right. The crux is a smooth v-shaped slot that has nothing for the left hand, except for small mantle moves to climb up the three small holds for the right hand in the slot. Once I figured this out, the climb was easy.
 

Leavenworth - Mountie's Buttress and R&D w/ Ken - June 4th

After the successful Eldorado trip, we were ever so slightly tempted to go for another alpine climb.  Well, we both knew we weren't serious so we headed out to Leavenworth as planned on a lovely, sunny, and warm Wednesday.  We took the route over Steven's Pass so Ken could gawk at Mount Index, Baring Mountain, and friends.  Those peaks are just a few hundred feet higher than the Denver city limits...but wow!  Anyway, we got into Leavenworth and headed right for a warmup on Mountie's Buttress, one of the real easy and enjoyable crags in Icicle Canyon.  Ken hadn't climbed in a while and I was also looking forward to a day where I was the most experienced guy around! 

This day's climbing was all shirtless which felt great (although I did have some sunburn afterwards)!  Ken had brought his gear up from Colorado.  It wasn't much but it was easily sufficient:  a collection of nuts and 3 cams (dang, can't remember what sizes...a little one, a medium one, and a big one).  The first pitch on Mountie's feels like 5.0 and it was indeed an easy lead; I placed protection for practice more than anything.  Ken followed it up fine and not without much excitement!  Cool!  The second pitch is the fun one on Mountie's Buttress.  I'm not sure what the official rating is but it seems like 5.3 maybe?  It's steep and smooth in places but there's always a nice little crack system on it and comfortable places to stand while placing gear.  Ken was even more exciting after that one.  The final third pitch is another easy one and I placed a single piece about halfway up.  OK, on to R&D for some really good stuff!

After a brief break for some food, we headed up the road to Icicle Buttress.  I really wanted to lead Cocaine Connection (5.7) because I had followed it easily every time(not 'cause I'm some tough guy climber, the slab stuff just feels real easy).  Cocaine Connection consists of 2 pitches, the second being much easier than the first, and then connects up with the upper two pitches of R&D (the fun ones) to lead to the top.  The first part of Cocaine Connection features an awkward but doable bouldering problem over a bulging and slanting potrusion to gain the slab.  It took me a moment to figure it out again but was easy to get up on to.  Now for the real part of the climb.  The closest bolt on the route was way out to the right on the slabs, the next one in a line was almost twice as run out.  So, I headed up.  The traverse just didn't feel comfortable.  It's also just not a very natural route to head to that closest bolt.  The route again felt pretty easy and I was comfortable smearing my way up the slabs.  It seemed like a long time before I finally saw the belay station.  I belayed Ken up and he arrived with a look of "what the heck was that!?!" on his face.  Ha ha!!  For some reason the rope was kinking up on him so we took the time to fix it.  I lead up the second pitch to the grassy ledge (someone cut the rappel slings there 'cause they're looking old) and heard Ken yell that the rope was kinking up again.  What the heck?  So, I decided to set up a gear anchor and bring him up before proceeding up the next short section to R&D.  When he got up the rope looked fine so we decided to keep going (the rope didn't bother us anymore).

I headed up the next pitch, a super short pitch to R&D since we'd cut the previous one in half.  It was a little harder than I thought - I went up a slightly different route that proved to be pretty tricky.  Finally we were at the beginning of the 2nd pitch of R&D and I told Ken what the remaining two pitches were like.  This was my 3rd time up here, once as a follower, once as a leader.  I took the direct route up to the chimney since it was dry now!  The chimney as always was fun though it felt like I was in it a little longer than last time.  Bah, no matter.  Ken came up again with a look of excitement and exhaustion on him.  Only one more to go:  The crux!  I got over the roof problem with no worries but the crux crack felt weird this time.  I was doing something wrong.  I knew I could probably pull it off from my awkward stance but being on the sharp end, wasn't in the mood for such triflings.  So, I backed down a little bit and tried jamming my other foot in the crack.  That was it!  Piece of cake.  I then zipped up the rest of the route and realized that I forgot to tell Ken that he might have to simul-climb part of the route because it's just at the ropes length to reach the end.  Well, the rope came tight and I couldn't really go further.  I took out my longest slings and girth-hitched them together to sling around the near boulder.  It just fit!  I then brought Ken up who had his loudest exclamations of the day, "That roof was hard!" and so on (but much more colorfully and eloquently)!  Mission accomplished.  A successful day in Leavenworth. 

Leavenworth - Cursed - Random stuff on Memorial Day - May 24-26

I marked this trip as "cursed" with a bit of superstition based on past experience.  I just haven't had hardly any good Memorial Day trips!  This one started off with me forgetting my camera.  I should have known then.  The weekend with Aidan and Michael would feature rock climbing as well as hiking.  The first day in Leavenworth we headed right to Castle Rock.  The first climb was the south face of Jello Tower.  I had lead the standard route on Jello Tower some weeks ago with much confidence.  Today I was a mere follower but my mind played it's tricks on my nonetheless and I felt quite sub par the entire trip.  The south face is rated 5.8+ I think and Michael led it.  I followed second and had a hard time on the first bulging crux.  I tried hanging while looking at my options as long as possible and my strength waned.  When it came time to make the move, I didn't have enough stregth to hold on and fell.  After some suggestions from Aidan, I moved left and was able to get on top.  The second crux was another bulge but felt much easier although my arms were quite pumped.  The exposure was great as well!  At the top of Jello Tower, I opted to give Aidan the lead of Midway Direct.  Following it this time seemed a lot harder.  What was going on today?  One of those days I guess.  Just like other things, rock climbing is subject to the same off-days I suspect.  Anyway, the route was fun.  The "step across" felt much more intimidating this time across...mabye it was because Aidan couldn't hear me yelling take as I essentially free climbed that spooky move!  Finally the rope came up and I headed up the rest of the route.  We were on the double rope system and Michael followed closely behind.

After Midway, the plan was to attempt Damnation 5.9.  Man, it looked hard.  Aidan was up for it though and led up as I belayed.  My fears of the difficulty were confirmed as he strained to place gear and then thankfully rested after several placements.  I started having real doubts, especiall today!  It took Aiden a while to conquer it but conquer he did!  I then gave both ropes over to Michael who confirmed that it was one of the hardest things he'd tried.  Smart decision (on my behalf)!

We then headed over to Saber (5.4 old school) where Michael led up the first pitch, an airy but secure left trending climb to a small perch at the "step across" on the Canary route.  I led up the final two pitches which did a lot for regaining my confidence.  These were two easy pitches but I needed a small success to tame my overactive mind.  The route is airy and consists of three easy but potentially intimidating roof systems.  The final pitch is a walk in the park, mostly 4th class really!  It was great to get another popular route under my belt though.

The following day was a long shuttle hike up Icicle Ridge.  That story is one for another time.  After Icicle Ridge, we went to Heidleburger for eats where a foul-mouthed woman gave us another fond memory.  She was quite terrifying to Michael and I.  Aidan proudly professed, "Bah!  I am not afraid!"  We thought him foolhardy.  Aidan then departed to catch up on school stuff.  He planted the flake route on "Barney's Rubble" as a fun after dinner project, suggesting that I lead it.  Well, I was up for it.  Michael and I had the route to ourselves and I headed up to lead the thing!  Some fun backstepping led me to the underclinging flake.  It was tough!  I placed a lot of gear because each hold felt quite tenuous.  I succeeded in making it to the top of the route...well, top meaning one more move!  I was out of cams to protect the awkward right horizontally trending undercling.  My instincts told me to go left but that was just too hard.  There were no holds (well, maybe a couple of 5.11 ones) to support myself on.  Michael suggested I move right which I tried by staying well underneath the flake (the wrong thing to do).  I moved out but suddenly had visions of "Princely Ambitions" except I was leading and I was above my last piece.  I knew I couldn't go on and couldn't hold on to my present location so I attempted to down climb.  After much mental anguish, I was able to rest on my top most piece.  I then decided to lower off and let Michael finish.  He kept all my pieces in place and finished the crux with a brilliant undercling at his shins!  I followed and tried the same thing.  Hey, it worked!  How come I didn't think of that!  We then top-roped it again for fun.

The next day was the much anticipated climb of "Orbit" on Snow Creek Wall.  After the long hike out there and the arduous ascent to the base (I wasn't feeling very good today either), I realized I didn't have my shoes.  Awful story.  Man, how frustrating.  My shoes were back at Barney's Rubble.  The day's rock climbing ended with "April Mayhem", a 5.9 crack.  I was already sunburned and belaying Michael from a very hot position (my rock climbing desire was fading rapidly).  When Michael took his fall I proclaimed that was enough for me!  Heed the signs!  Memorial Days trips are ill-fated expeditions!

Read Michael's account here. (more pictures)

Index - Pisces and Princely Ambitions - May 11th

"Si me da hambre, no me voy.  Me como un Snickers."  Kris, Michael, and I headed out to Index for a couple of short pitches with the idea of returning fairly early to shoot a couple of planning scenes for Kris's Martian Diagonal birthday climb.  First stop was Great Northern Slab and the Pisces climb which Kris had been wanting to climb for a long time.  I led the first pitch because I wasn't sure if I was ready to lead the crack yet (the second pitch) because they have been historically painful on the feet for me (thanks to the shoes, I think).  The first pitch is a breeze.  Kris and Michael came up really fast.  The crack pitch was awesome for me this time - easy and pain free, for the most part.  I headed up the last pitch which is a short and fun pitch culminating in a face climb.  We rappelled down to Pisces again and Kris top roped it again.  I was planning on doing the same thing but figured we might as well get started on Princely Ambitions, which I hadn't even seen yet.

Princely Ambitions (5.9, but recently rated at 10a after a big flake fell off in 1991 at the crux) looked pretty scary!  The first pitch was essentially the entire rope length straight up.  I was a little apprehensive but committed to giving it a try.  Michael led the way up obviously (his first time on this route).  It took him a while on some crux sections, which made me a little nervous.  He let out a few triumphant hollers now and then after negotiating some tough sections.  Then I noticed his leg twitching in a couple of spots...hmmm, can I do this??  Michael seemed really satisfied when he made it up to the top.  Then it was my turn.  Getting up on the face was an easy proposition.  It took me quite a while on the first crux move which was an awkward mantle that I *didn't* mantle on.  For some reason, I was really reluctant to take a potential fall.  I knew I was perfectly safe on the rope but I really wasn't in the mood for the heart wrenching feeling of slipping on that steep face.  Finally, after trying numerous other ways, I realized I had to commit to that tough move.  So, I placed my hands on solid holds (tilted and small though they were) and put my weight on my arms and smeared my way up until I could reach higher to a more secure hold.  I was also able to get a hand jam in a crack above which helped out.

The next crux was the hard, but moreso scary, part.  I climbed up an awkward underclinging crack with good foothold fortunately.  The crux of the climb, and where the flake fell off, consisted of stepping across a bulging face on nubbing footholds.  The scary part was letting go of the underclinging crack on the left and gently moving to the right and searching for a handhold for the right hand.  I paused for a while halfway through the move feeling for a hold...nothing.  Then my legs, both of them, started shaking a bit and I retreated.  A second attempt with more leg shaking, basically sewing machine leg, and more stretch finally revealed the "Thank God" hold. 

Michael described the next section as his crux and I can understand that if I were leading:  a horizonal and incredibly exposed hand traverse.  Well, the entire climb is super exposed but there are virtually no footholds for the traverse.  I started out and it wasn't too bad although I was wondering how I'd end up getting up on the traverse.  Surprisingly enough, even though I was quite pumped from the base of the climb, it was easy enough.  A few more tough moves led to a blocky dihedral that, though exposed, was quite easy.  I knew that the hard part was done, so this felt like a breeze.  Whew!  Finally, I popped out on the top!  So, this was definitely my hardest and most thrilling outdoor climb to date.  The rappel was great...a free-hanging double rope rappel the whole way down!

 

A view of the top of the route through the trees from the parking lot. The other party is just now topping out.  It doesn't look that high up from here!

Read Michael's account of the lead.

Leavenworth - April 26th - 27th

A large gang of folks headed up to Leavenworth to celebrate Kris's birthday the weekend of April 26th and 27th.  And what a grand fiesta it was:  climbing during the morning and afternoon (complete with Dawn Patrols both mornings) and plenty of merry-making during the evening.  I showed up at the homestead on the Wenatchee at 8:45 and Peter and Michael were off climbing Canary on Castle Rock.  When they got back, Peter expressed his dismay with the route...Michael confirmed it was indeed tough.  We then headed out to climb the favorite R&D route.  Peter and Kim started out on the standard route while Kris, Michael, and I started up Cocaine Connection that connects up with the second pitch of R&D.  I'd done both of these routes before (an old timer...ha ha!) and thoroughly enjoyed both.  I really like the friction climbing on Cocaine Connection...a nice break from the usual crack stuff!

Kris on "Cocaine Connection"

After the two-pitches on Cocaine Connection we hooked back up with Kim and Peter.  Michael and Peter opted for Cocaine Crack and I took the lead on the final two pitches on R&D with Kim and Kris.  While on the next pitch I got some good pictures of Michael on Cocaine Crack.

Michael on "Cocaine Crack"

Unfortunately, the crack was fillled with green slime and water so Michael and Peter had to back down.  Ah well, later in the summer perhaps.  But we all enjoyed finishing up R&D.  There were high winds on the short hand crack that starts the final pitch!

Peter topping out on "R&D"

After that, and mysteriously cliffing out on the descent off Icicle Buttress, we headed down to Classic Crack.  I somehow managed to thrash my way up it.  I was testing out Michaels crack shoes.  They took out the pain factor for crack climbing for me.  Michael borrowed mine and emerged on the top of the route howling from the pain.  OK, so at least I've got that going for me.  My Five Ten Spires are great for friction but lousy for cracks!

After a late night of joviality featuring great food, piņatas, our acoustic ensemble, and Kris taking out various opponents with the sniper rifle in Halo, Michael and I headed out the following morning to Castle Rock for "Midway Direct".  Michael started up Jello Tower but the crack shoes just weren't working for him for the start of the route.  So, I ended up leading Jello Tower which was probably my hardest lead yet.  It was really fun though; there were two crux moves (if I recall) about 2/3rds and 3/4ths the way up.  I was anxious to see what this exposed "step across" from Jello Tower to Upper Castle Rock was really like!  Well, it turned out to indeed be overrated...it's not *that* bad.  The exposure on the directissima of Midway was much more thrilling.  I recall a second traverse under a small chimney that was easy but had small holds and sensational exposure.  I let out a whoop after being done.  The rest of the climb was spectacular face climbing with handy features where needed.  This was my favorite climb of the weekend.

On top of Castle Rock after "Midway Direct"

The next climb was at Peshastin Pinnacles.  After Michael and Kim suffered through the "Tunnel Route" on Orchard Rock (they hated it), Michael, Kris, Kim, and I went over to try "Martian Diagonal" on Martian Tower.  Michael let me take the entire lead which was great.  The start wasn't hard but I got a good 30 feet up before I was able to place any pro, a small cam in a solid and sufficiently pocket.  From then on it was great friction climbing with an occasional bolt and a cam here and there.  This three pitch climb was a lot of fun (but not as good as Midway).  But it was friction so I was happy.  I ended up leading Kris up and Michael followed with Kim using my gear placements.

Looking down on the others on "Martian Diagonal"

Kris about to top out on "Martian Diagonal"

We stopped for a late lunch at Heidlburger and said goodbye to Kim and Peter.  Kris, Michael, and I weren't done yet so we climbed "Gibson's Crack", a weird little crack climb that was a lot of fun and then traversed over to Mounties Buttress where we each took a lead on a pitch:  Kris took the first (her first too!), I took the second (a fun one!), and Michael finished off with the third, placing maybe one piece on the whole thing!  We then hiked out in the waning sunshine.  Once again, first in, last out!  That's the only way to go!  Great Birthday, Kris!  Looking forward to next year!

Kris leading the first pitch of Mountaineer's Buttress

Me leading the second pitch

Royal Columns at Tieton River Canyon - April 20th

Robert and I spent the entire day (again, the first in and last out) up at the Royal Columns at Tieton River Canyon.  The day started with a Tyrolean Traverse over Tieton river.  We made the mistake of leaving our packs on while traversing (remedied on the way out).  It's amazing how much a difference the packs made - some serious strain on the stomach muscles.

Tyrolean style

A fire tore through the area a couple of years ago and the trees and shrubs had weird circles of ash still around their base.  We wound our way through the trees and up the short trail to the cliffs and started out with the place to ourselves.  Routes we climbed:

• Some Chimney whose name I don't recall
• Mush Maker (the hardest of the day)
• Twin Cracks
• Double Trouble (my favorite follow)
• Nimrod's Nemesis
• The Apprentice
• Slacker
• Western Front (my favorite lead)
• I thought there was another but maybe not

Robert on MushMaker

MushMaker again

(l-r) Twin Cracks (5.6) and Double Trouble (5.5)

We climbed moderate routes ranging from 5.3 to 5.7 (old school).  We climbed Mush Maker (5.7) early on and this was really tough for me:  a continuously difficult and steep crack.  I fell once and had to rest on the rope a couple of times 'cause my feet were getting crushed (I need those crack shoes I tried last week).  I'm not too hot with those cracks yet.  After that, my confidence was a little shaken.  I regained it eventually after some really fun climbs like Twin Cracks and Double Trouble and ended with a really fun lead on Western Front (5.3).  Earlier in the day, a group of Mountaineers showed up for lead practicing.  Again, as Michael pointed out in his Mount Eerie trip report, their latrine became an issue as we inadverdently spied down on it from above while in use.  Mental note:  There may be people above you at climbing areas.

View from the top of "Western Front"

Leavenworth Rock Climbing - April 5th

Robert and I spent the entire day in Icicle Canyon under mostly cloudy and sometimes snowy skies.  Our first climb was inadverdently Givler's Crack (5.8) as we were looking for something else then stumbled upon this nice climb.  The crux was a tilted awkward crack at the very beginning.  Beyond was another crux section, a smooth slab that led to the main crack section.  Top notch, four-star climb! 

Givler's Crack

After Givler's, Robert and I transformed in to "Gulliver" searching and scrambling all over the upper reaches of the area looking for Icicle Buttress.  Without a decent guidebook we weren't sure until we decided we might be on top, which we were!  So, we headed down for R&D but it was busy.  We opted for a quick two pitch slab climb called "Cocaine Connection" (5.7).  This felt like a walk in the park!

Well, we decided then to move to a different wall.  We found "Domestic Dome" and tried Connie's Crack which had one section rated 5.6 and 5.2 (whatever).  Robert led the first part which featured a steep and smooooth slab.  Beyond that, I led (first real trad lead!) up the crack which featured some awkward and difficult moves...difficult because I was leading!  We thought about trying Underachiever (5.8) but bailed when the rope wouldn't reach far enough for a top rope.  "Let's go for R&D...it's probably free now!"

Connie's Crack

At R&D (II, 5.6), the crowds (it was never "crowded) had dispersed and we decided to try to climb this one as fast as possible.  It was an easy and fun climb, very much alpine in nature with our quick pace.  We topped out at just over an hour, not bad!  The climb featured some fun stuff:  a simple little roof, a fun chimney, a good crack and easy friction climbing.  Definitely recommend!

Pisces Crack (5.6) - Index - April 1st - Rainy!

Michael came up with the plan at the last minute to climb Pisces crack at Index.  I was taking a break from climbing since I'd strained my elbow but a trip outside was a different story.  After the call at 3pm, I showed up at Michael and Kris's office and we headed out to Index over dark clouds.  After logically arguing how the rain wouldn't interfere with our climb we arrived at the parking lot just as the rain started to sprinkle.  Hmm...oh well.  So, this would be a wet climb.  The scramble up to the base of the climb was an inelegant collection of knee moves and hauling ourselves up; needless to say, it wasn't pretty.  Anyway, the rock was really slick but at least the rain had stopped.  Michael headed up the first easy pitch which was a good bit tougher thanks to the rain.  The sun was going down as Michael headed up the second pitch, the Pisces crack.  Since I'd never been here before, Kris let me go up next, content to just hang out at the second pitch and check out the Index peaks in the dim background.

The crack was great!  Since it was so dark I didn't notice the exposure until Michael told me to turn around.  Wow!  There was a bright star above Mount Index.  Venus?  Anyway, I continued up with a good bit of foot pinching (arr!! ow!  Not used to this!) and then I was there.  Cool climb!  We rappelled in darkness and headed back to town to feast on tacos with bean adhesive and the like.

No pictures...even when there was still daylight it was too dark for my camera.

Vantage Rock Climbing - March 30th

After such a great Sunday at Vantage the week before, I was able to convince a friend from work, Justin, and his wife and another friend to head out to Vantage again.  It was much nicer this weekend - not windy and warmed by the sun.  We stayed at the Feathers all day climbing some harder routes.  We knocked out the typical easy ones to begin with and then played around on Shake it Don't Break It (5.5), a fun 5.7 whose name escapes me, The Uprising (5.8), Jesus Saves (5.8), Satan's Little Helper (5.8), and Blood Blister (5.10b).  The 5.10 climb wore me out (I didn't make it...still too hard!) but the overhanging "Satan's Little Helper" was full of nice jugs and I was able to still pull that off.

"The Feathers"

Justin starting up "Jesus Saves" as Julie belays.  This one featured a difficult weird section between the 1st and 2nd bolts.  The rest was pretty easy.

Vantage Rock Climbing - March 23rd

Kris and I zoomed out Sunday morning to meet Michael who had spent the night out at Vantage the night before.  We made good time getting there except for taking about 12 wrong turns once we turned off the highway (too much talking and not enough reading the directions on how get there).

Michael and Kris getting ready

Here's a view of the Feathers.  We started climbing here first since these climbs are easier.  I led a 5.0, 5.4, and a 5.5, a momentous occasion!

Michael and I climbed "Shady Chimney", 5.7, after departing from the Feathers.  The chimney was way snug at the bottom and got quite smooth near the top but being a chimney, the going was pretty easy.  A highly recommended climb.

Here I am leading up "Peaceful Warrior", 5.6.  This was the hardest one I led all day, but still it was easy.  There was a nice ledge at every spot where I needed to clip into the rope.

Both Kris (climbing above) and Michael climbed up Peaceful Warrior as well.  To finish, Michael and I climbed the two pitched "Chossmaster".  Each pitch was quite different:  the first was steep but fairly blocky, with a few bulges.  The second pitch wasn't as steep but featured rounded knobs and a short crack. 

"The Chossmaster" photos: