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This weeklong trip into the Cascades was indeed a classic. We planned six
days for the traverse which included various summits as well and, amazingly, we
stuck very close to our itinerary. The Ptarmigan traverse is about a 25-mile
north to south direct jaunt from Cascade Pass to the Downey Creek trailhead. The original
pioneering party traveled south to north, but the best route is undoubtedly
in the opposite direction. This way, you get to look directly at the big, scary,
ice-clad north faces of the mountains along the way. This is indeed the
most common direction that trekkers take today. We left Monday
morning very early and dropped Michael's car off at Downey Creek, then took my
car the long way back and around up to Cascade Pass. The car shuttle is a
bit of a drawback but is worth it in the end since you're on new terrain
constantly. We finally started hiking
around 10:45. It was a really clear day that promised to be really hot.
Our packs were jam packed, mostly with food, but overall were quite light and
small.

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Approaching Cascade Pass with Eldorado Peak in the
background |
Big switchbacks on a really popular trail brought us to the pass where there was a very large party (or multiple parties)
resting. We took
our first break at a spot about 100 feet beyond the pass where an uninhibited
deer joined us for a while. We spied several small parties heading up Sahale
Peak as well today. This is quite a popular place - and this day was a Monday.
From here, we still could not see around to Cache Glacier and the way to Cache
Col. Continuing up, we entered a long section of steep and loose scree,
but still with a reasonable trail. After crossing a steep snowfield and climbing
up some even steeper scree, we were able to see Cache Glacier. We took a
break at the base of the glacier and then took out our cups and started the
popular tradition of "dipping our cups" in the various snowmelt and falls coming
off the glacier. We kept small cups hanging conveniently on our packs. This way, we didn't have to fill up our water bottles and
could save them for when water wasn't available, and we were able to drink our
fill quite confident that the water was pure.

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The view back on Cascade Pass with Forbidden and Sahale
Peaks in the background |

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At the base of Cache Glacier |
We started up the Cache Glacier and after a couple hundred feet,
I realized I'd left my hat back at our rest stop. So I wheeled around and
went back for it. A sun hat was a necessary essential on this trip! Michael went on ahead
and he headed for the small notch on the left side of the glacier which was
indeed Cache Col. As with most glaciers, it felt like a long time before
we were at the final steep snow finger that led to a short section of scree at Cache Col. A little bit of ice axe work put us on top and we had
our first views of Mount Formidible and the Middle Fork of the
Cascade River. We took another break at this grand vista.

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Mount Formidible from Cache Col |
Our original plans called for a climb of Hurry-up Peak but we
were both actually losing interest in this. Maybe it was a result of
gaining all of this elevation with our packs on. We set our sights on
getting to Kool Aid Lake, which was just out of view to the left. There
was still a decent path heading down to the lake. It turned out that this
entire trip featured good treads to follow. The only lengthy spot that I
can think of that did not have a path was the area around LeConte Peak. We
soon were able to see Kool Aid Lake about 800 feet below us. The path led
us through dusty scree and some pleasant heather slopes. Down at the lake
we met Peggy Goldman, author of 75 Scrambles in Washington, and her
husband who had sustained a calf injury. He wasn't in any pain, just
wasn't able to walk! They were awaiting a rescue
helicopter. The helicopter arrived about 10 minutes after we arrived.
In the meantime, they gave us beta on Mount Formidable which they had recently
climbed. With that climb, Peggy had finished climbing the hundred highest
peaks in Washington.

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Alpine rescue at Kool Aid Lake |
It was still pretty early in the day but we didn't want to
expend too much energy climbing Hurry-up Peak. It probably would have been
pretty easy from this high spot but we decided to press on to some reputed camp
sites beyond the Red Ledge in order to get closer to, and save our energy for
Mount Formidable which we would try the next day. The snow approach to the
Red Ledge was a little steep but not bad. The ledge itself was completely
melted out and an easy passage up to higher slopes where we found a sweet
campsite above the path near another ice melt stream. We both dipped our
cups and drank our fills.


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(above) The view behind us. On the left is
Johannesburg. On the far right is Mix-up. Eldorado Peak is
framed in the middle.
(below) Campsite beyond the Red Ledge with a great view of
the Middle Cascade Glacier and Mount Formidible |
The rest of the late afternoon was spent resting and then
preparing our food on a small bluff just below our campsite. This was a
great spot to be - looking way down on the lower parts of the glacier and the
valley even further below. We turned in as the light waned.
Day 2 |