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Of the three awesome mountains we climbed, I was most eager to climb Mount
Terror. Something about the name, it's location, and the remote north
buttress culminated in interest I've had since coming to the Pacific Northwest.
Today was the day. Another unknown for us was how to get down to McMillan
Cirque. We certainly couldn't descend straight from Picket Pass since it
was typical ridiculous steep terrain. The opposite side of the pass, however, was quite
accessible from Goodell Creek. We had argued about just where the pass
was. I guess if the definition of a pass is "the way through either side",
then it would have to be a very wide pass. We had an idea from a photo that I'd taken from
the top of McMillan Spire the previous year that we could ascend about 40-60
feet beyond the low point of Picket Pass and make a steep descent down ledges and gullies to
McMillan Cirque. We decided to try it and it ended up going, but not after
more interesting terrain at the very bottom that we only could shake our heads
and fists at yet again. We were blocked by a slabby cliffy area and opted to throw the
rope around a sturdy tree and rappell down. I volunteered to go first and got
down pretty far, but not the entire way. We still had some interesting
scrambling to get down. I can't remember the details of how Aidan and
Michael negotiated it, but my technique was to lower my pack so that I wouldn't
have that weight throwning me off. Indeed it was an easy scramble without
that extra weight, but exposed, and we were soon down at the glacial slabs. We began our
traverse under the Mustard Glacier to the base of the north buttress.

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Traversing slabs in McMillan Cirque. Mount Terror is
off to the left. |
Traversing the slabs was awesome. There were lots of
uninterrupted water streams running down the polished slabs that gave the area a
distinct zebra effect. Further beyond we pass by large ice blocks that had
recently broken off from the glacier above, some as big as coolers, others were
as big as cars. We got on to the glacier and continued to traverse to the
buttress. There was a distinct snowfield near the bottom of the buttress
that we dubbed "the kitty". Our plan was to get on to the buttress below
it and traverse underneath quickly, then cut back up the face above it.

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Getting off the glacier and on to the buttress |
We had to retrace our steps and downclimb the glacier a bit due
to some unreasonably steep ice. The climb back up to the buttress stepping
point was again steep but thankfully made easier by large cups in the snow.
We placed an ice screw to belay Michael from. It seemed like forever
before I was allowed to move (I was in the back), but at least we all got on to
the buttress safely. We quickly switched into rock shoes and packed our
boots as compactly as possible. Aidan took off for the first two pitches.
These two pitches covered enormous amounts of easy ground. We quickly made
our way under and around the kitty snowfield. The climbing started to
become more challenging near the end of the second pitch. It was also very
solid thus adding to the enjoyment. I took off for the next two pitches.
From here on it, it was all 5th class terrain until we got high on the north
buttress where the long thin snowfield cuts laterally below the false summit.
I felt really good leading however on my second lead, I ended up picking a poor
route, ignoring an obvious dihedral. I thought it would go, but the face
started to blank out on me and steepen. Before too long, I was fuddling
around not making any progress when Aidan and Michael shouted up that I should
either lower off or downclimb. Well, I wasn't about to lower off if I
could but I certainly didn't want to continue up. So, I made a careful
downclimb then got into the dihedral which was fun 5.6 climbing. It felt a
little acrobatic to me, but Aidan and Michael made short work of it as I brought
them up. I had made it to the buttress crest.

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Aidan and Michael follow the fun dihedral |
At this point, Michael took over and led us up increasingly hard
terrain. Some of the books say there is a 3rd class route on this north
buttress, but I no longer believe it. Even if you could find a 3rd class
route (you'd have to be an elite routefinder to do so), the exposure is still
fierce the whole way. After long sections of nice white gneiss, the route
was starting to darken slowly with lichen and become a little more loose.
Michael led a hard and scary traverse move that he rated 5.8 (much scarier with
a full pack). I was able to bypass it by continuing to lieback a corner up
the ridge.

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Me following up increasingly hard and steep terrain. |
Steep terrain continued on Michael's second lead. We left
the crest of the buttress and moved back on to the face before ending at an
awkward stance before a chimney. Aidan led up through the chimney.
He soon reached the snowfield that led upward to the false summit. We
didn't need to touch the snow, but it was nice to know we'd be on 2nd and 3rd
class terrain for a while. Michael and I followed up the fun chimney.

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Here I am following up the chimney just below the
snowfield |
We followed the easy terrain up to a large level area where we
took of our packs and casually walked around. The huge face below had me
not desiring any more rock climbing. It was afternoon by now. We had
been on the buttress for a long time. It was hard to tell which way to go
from here, but Michael spotted a cairn off to the left. We scrambled
around to the left over exposed terrain to an obviously belay station.
Above it was a flaky chimney. It was my turn to lead so I headed up.
More horns to sling...my favorite.


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(above) Looking back down on Michael and Aidan and the
Degenhardt Glacier far below. This is the chimney pitch that led to
the false summit.
(below) Aidan and Michael traversing on the same pitch. Mount Fury and
Luna Peak are in the background. |
At the top of the fun chimney, I began traversing and slightly
trending upward. When the rope drag became too difficult, I stopped, slung
a horn, and brought Aidan and Michael up. Michael was anxious to lead
again so we let him go. He ended up leading us up one of the best pitches
of the route - A long, continually solid and fun off-width crack. At the
top of this awesome pitch, we arrived at the big blocks underneath the false
summit. The true summit was directly in front of us as well. But
there was no bypassing of the false summit on the left, we had to go up and
over it. There was no point in bypassing on the right since it was a long
and gentle slope.


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(above) Under the true and false summits
(below) Aidan and I following the stellar final pitch |
Michael led off again on another fantastic pitch. Was this
one the best? Hard to say, but it was awesome. Aidan likened it to
Mathis Crest in the Sierras, something I'd like to do someday. The pitch
was basically another solid and fun one, this time a hand traverse of sorts.
Still, at the top of the false summit, I was glad the rock climbing was done.
We down-climbed some 4th class terrain to get on the "standard" west ridge
route. We then dropped our packs and scampered up 3rd and 4th class
terrain to the top. Awesome! We got climbed all of the mountains we
set out to climb. It was great being on top of the last big mountain with
such excellent gentlemen as well.


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(above) Alright! On the top of Mount Terror -
a place I've wanted to be for a long time.
(below) Deep dark McMillan Valley - the Lost World |
We couldn't stay on top long though as the sun was already
threatening to drop soon. We scrambled back down to our packs then down a
little further then back up onto the main part of the ridge (I suppose this
actually terminates in the false summit) and down to the rappel point. We
threaded the rope through and Michael headed down. Unfortunately, the rope
didn't reach the entire way (it was a 50m rope) and we had to spend more time
devising another rappel that got us down to the horrid gully between Mount
Terror and The Rake.

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Michael rappels down to the gully (or at least within
sight of it) as Aidan looks on. |
At this point, I'd like to recommend that folks not even bother
climbing Mount Terror via the "easy" west ridge route. The hike in is so
long and the climb consists of a wretchedly loose gully and then a relatively
loose scramble up to the top. If you're going to take the time, do the
north buttress. If you're not up for the north buttress, do West McMillan
Spire instead. Anyway, back to the story, we delicately made our way down
the gully knocking all sorts of rocks down. About a third of the way down,
the route is blocked by a huge chockstone which must be miserable to pass in the
opposite direction (another reason to not to climb that route). We took
the rope out AGAIN and rappelled as far as possible down the gully, then slipped
and slid our way into Crescent Creek basin. The late afternoon light was
now bathing the basin in orange so we knew our campsite tonight would be on the
glacial slabs of Crescent Creek Basin. The actually campsite was to be
near the Chopping Block, not too far away, but too far for today.

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Aidan dunks his head in frigid glacier water
as Michael looks on in disbelief. |
Before our last meal of the trip (sniff), Aidan decided to dunk
himself in the glacial pool next to our camp. I'd already put in my feet
and hands to wash up and I knew I wanted no part of it. He quickly waded
into the center then slowly sat down as he went into these hilarious convulsions...I
still laugh to this day recalling the funny episode. We enjoyed our last
meal (oh man, that mashed potatoe, broccoli, and cheese dish was excellent!) and
then turned in. I teased Michael and Aidan as we went to sleep with each
of my shooting star sightings. |