|
I slept like a rock and awoke to Robert pulling on the mosquito netting of the
bivy sack he let me borrow. It was 6:30 and the sky was gray with clouds.
We packed up and meandered our way down to Mesa Lake, regained part of the
ridge, and descended again before finding a trail that we could follow. We
were now hiking along the "Lost World Plateau", completely devoid of people
(that would change as soon as we descended from Prusik Peak).

|
More granite traversing. This time, it's above
Mesa Lake in the
Lost World Plateau. |
A long traverse along the right side of Shield Lake brought us to the final
slopes that led us to the top of Prusik Pass. I felt like I had a lot of
energy yesterday, but this morning I felt like I was dragging a bit. At
the pass, we turned right and boulder hopped up to a spot just below the west
ridge where we ditched our packs and got the gear ready for a climb of the west
ridge, which loomed directly in front of us. It looked totally inviting; I
was looking forward to climbing rather than more slogging. There was still
no one else in sight as we headed off. I realized that I'd left my helmet
back at the camp.
 
|
Getting ready to climb the west ridge |
I headed off for the first pitch and scrambled up a lot of 4th class before
encountering easy 5th class climbing in the middle of the face.
Eventually, Robert started following somewhere along a long, low-angled crack
right on the left side of the ridge. This crack led up to a short
strenuous move over a block that led around the corner to a nice belay spot.
The rope drag was getting bad so I threw a sling around a block and brought
Robert up.


|
(top) The crack system. The short strenuous move
is getting over the small wall at the end of the crack. Easy
though.
(bottom) Robert arrives at the first belay. Shield Lake is in the
background. |
Robert started the second pitch. This was one of the 5.7 cruxes - a
committing but easy face move. Robert scrambled over more exposed ridge to
a wide ledge where he belayed me up.

|
Robert is on the slab crux. Four Roberts, that
is, showing the route he took. |
I led off next, a steep pitch consisting of high quality mid-5th class
climbing. The first section is a crack in a corner that leads up to a
foot-wide ledge. One can continue climbing straight up, which would lead
to an offwidth crack. Instead, I opted to move right to a vertical flake
system which led to a belay station just below the summit. From here, the
rope drag increased again. I saw several options. We could descend
just a little and walk a thin ledge to the offwidth, or we could solo (or spot
the leader) up a chimney just below the summit. I decided to bring Robert
up to show him the options. Having climbed the route before, he saw a
third: a prominent "chicken head" which could be used to scamper up a very
exposed final section of easy ridge which led to the summit. We chose this
option - top notch!

|
Robert about to start the climb up the flakes |
 
|
Pointing at the chicken head - the key to the summit!
In the right photo, Robert's right hand is grabbing the chicken head.
Chicken head!!! |

|
The last section of the ridge while looking down the
south face. |
We climbed the route pretty fast and spent a relatively long time lounging
around on the summit before finally beginning the descent. We'd looked at
the Temple Ridge traverse but both quickly admitted that we didn't "smell the
summit". I'm glad we didn't; just hanging it out and taking it easy was
much more appealing.

|
On the summit of Prusik - finally! This is a
great climb! |
Returning to camp, I discovered that the leather netting in my helmet had
been chewed up. Not sure who the culprit was. Either a marmot or a
goat. Ah well, that helmet served me well over the years. It was the
first I'd bought and I guess I can retire it now. There were also suddenly
a lot of people wanting to climb Prusik Peak.
We descended down passing Gnome Lake where I snapped the classic view of
Prusik Peak, undeniably one of the great views in the state of Washington.
Beyond this we made our way down to the creek along a paradise of smooth
granite. We took a long break here, lying in the sun.

|
Prusik Peak from Gnome Lake |

|
Hangin' out on the granite.
Better than slogging up Temple Mountain! |
We started the long hike down making one last significant stop
at Vivian Lake where we ate for the last time. A ranger passed along the
trail below us but didn't ask us for our permits. The rest of the hike out
in the Enchantments was genuinely enchanting, truly one of the unique spots in
Washington. Waterfalls cascaded from high granite perches, the sky was a
deep blue, and the occasional mountain goat punctuated the perfect balance of
the area. Below "Trauma Ridge" though, the hike becomes a long long slog through
the forest. We put on the iPods to pass the miles more quickly. At
least we weren't hiking out in darkness or anything. I couldn't believe
how quickly we were losing elevation and we still had such a long way to go.
It was pretty interesting seeing the aqueduct from Snow Lakes to Nada Lake in
action. It's a massive jet of water that forms a huge rainbow. Check
out this shot:

We arrived back at the car just before 7pm. We then headed
to the hamburger joint in Cashmere, Rusty's, and returned with the food to
Robert's cabin where we kicked back, ate, and drank. Great trip, homes!
Total trip stats: 20 Miles, 8500 Feet of Elevation |